refrigerator control board PCB assembly electronic manufacturing
refrigerator control board PCB assembly electronic manufacturing
  • refrigerator control board PCB assembly electronic manufacturing
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    This refrigerator DIY repair guide shows how to replace an electronic control board in bottom-freezer and side-by-side refrigerators. The electronic control board is the "brains" of the refrigerator that controls major components such as the compressor and fans. If the electronic control board fails, the refrigerator can't cool correctly. It won't cool at all if the control board relay that turns on the compressor fails, which is the most common problem with a refrigerator control board (other failed parts can prevent the control board from running, such as the start device or overload fuse). Another symptom of a failed control board is that fans, lights or other components aren't working.

    The compressor on my refrigerator will not turn on no matter what I try. Everything else is working but the compressor. The compressor fan and evaporator fan turn normally when I plug the fridge in. The lights inside the fridge work too. After I plug in the refrigerator there is a click I hear from the motherboard. The motherboard on my refrigerator is located at the back of my fridge behind a small metal plate behind the freezer section. There is no click, hum, or movement from the compressor at all. Is the compressor bad or is it the main control board

    Step 6: Remove the control board

    Remove the mounting screws and locking clips that secure the control board in the housing. Remove the control board.

    The very first thing that needs to be done is to check for any possible cooling unit leak. This will either be in the form of a yellow powder/ residue beneath the cooling unit or by a faint, sometimes strong, smell of ammonia. If neither of those symptoms exist, it's time for you to reset the board.
    The next step in the process is for you to remove the power board cover from behind the refrigerator. There will be an access panel on the outside of your RV, directly behind where the refrigerator sits. From there you will have direct access to the power board. It is a black rectangular cover that will have wires going to it. There are a few screws holding this cover on.

    The next thing you'll need to do is jumper a pin terminal on the power board to ground (we recommend something around a 12 gauge jumper wire). The refrigerator must be on and showing the fault code before you jump the pin terminal to ground. Hold the jumper wire to the pin and ground for about 10 seconds or until you hear an audible click.

    If your power board was made pre , you'll find a 16 pin plug connector at the bottom of the power board (two rows of 8). On this style board, you'll need to jump the second pin from the left hand side on the top row to ground. It will be an empty slot.

    Need your control board repaired and need it done quickly? Many boards take only 1 day to repair. We're also available for drop offs. We deal in Kitchenaid, Whirlpool, Maytag, Bosch, Amana, Haier, Jenn Air, Kenmore, LG, Samsung, Roper, GE Monogram, Frigidaire, GE Profile, Speed Queen, Estate and many more. We also repair other control boards. If your board isn't listed, simply call us and we'll let you know whether we can repair it or not. We've been in the business for 20 plus years. There is no charge if your board can't be repaired. We also do appliance repair and can come to your home if you're in need of appliance repair. Please call (561) 503-9599 to get an estimate. We also don't charge anything to come to your home and evaluate your appliance should you live a certain mileage from our home base. If you decide to not have it repaired, we walk away at no cost to you.

    This Replaces Ice Level Control Board ER4389102, replaces W10757851. Refrigerator ice level control board. The ice level control board uses an infrared beam to sense the level of ice in the ice bucket and signal the ice maker to make more ice. If the ice level control board fails, the ice maker will stop making ice.

    No refunds on buyers remorse or damaged boards. We will allow a one time exchange within 7 days of delivery if you realized you purchased the wrong board. Buyer is responsible for return shipping.

    Step 7: Install the new control board

    hauled it back home to New Tampa in my van all the way from Westchase. And I swapped the motherboard. It started working great. Despite that, since this was going to a rental unit, I ordered a new motherboard and fan from GE as I do not want to be bothered with service calls. In the meantime, I thought I would fix the original motherboard and see if it works. But no it did not work. I do not do this professionally. Just as an interest.I work in Citigroup finance and do not have time to do this. But I love fixing stuff. And I handle HVAC units for myself and friends once in a while. As you know, mostly it is a blown capacitor. I would love to meet you but do not know how to contact you - do please suggest a way.

    This is a repair service an Whirlpool which may come up as one of the following brands: Admiral, Crosley, Dacor, Frigidaire, GE, Hardwick, Hotpoint, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef, Norge, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag, Thermador and Whirlpool brands. This repair service corrects issues such as certain error codes and other problems.

    REFRIGERATOR CONTROL BOARD REPAIR COMMON FAQS

    Can you repair my existing refrigerator control board?

    Yes, this is an refrigerator control board repair service for your existing control board.

    What are some of the common problems or symptoms that this refrigerator control board repair service will fix?

    Compressed archives combine multiple files into a single file to make them easier to transport or save on diskspace. Archiving software may also provide options for encryption, file spanning, checksums, self-extraction, and self-installation. Zip is the most-widely used format, used by the Windows operating system and more recently by OSX as well. RAR is also a very popular and flexible format.

    Some common problems associated with these boards are listed below. Your fridge may be having some or all of these symptoms.

    Error Codes
    Refrigerator doesn’t reach temperature
    Compressor will not turn on
    Other intermittent error codes



    This would be my last time I would ever buy any LG appliance, the last refrigerator I owned ran for 13 years without a problem before I donated it to a needy family and it is still running fine. LG refrigerators that I purchased did not even run for 6 months before breaking down with a major part replacement. I will be happy to share the photos of the part that goes bad in most cases, it should really be recalled by the company. If you need more info, please email me

    Position the housing cover on the top of the control housing and reinstall the mounting screw. Place the bottom back panel on the back of the refrigerator so that the screw holes line up. Insert the screws and tighten them firmly.

    Step 10: Reconnect the water supply line

    After the board has been reset, it will run for three to four hours before it goes back into the lock-out mode it was in before. If it goes back into this code, we highly recommend contacting us for troubleshooting. Have one of our technicians walk you through a checklist of symptoms that can be diagnosed with little to zero knowledge of refrigerators. We offer this service in the form of Email support as well as phone support. We know RVers are Do-It-Yourselfers, so let us help you get that refrigerator back in working order! You can schedule a time slot at the link below:
    Norcold Technical Support
    The underlying issue could be any of the following:
    Poor ventilation
    Off-level operation
    Dirty burner

    Bad thermistor
    Low AC voltage
    Cooling fan inoperative
    Improper installation
    Incorrect orifice
    Bad cooling unit
    We hope this article has been helpful in getting your RV refrigerator working! Remember, resetting the board doesn't fix the problem that brought this code on. It simply resets the code so that you can further troubleshoot the underlying issue/s.

    Wrap a small amount of pipe thread tape around the water supply line fitting on the back of the water valve. Fit the water line into the water valve assembly and tighten the compression nut firmly. Open the water supply cut-off valve. If the fitting leaks, tighten the compression nut and check again.

    For a reliable diagnosis, have a service technician test the electronic control board. If you need to replace it, use the manufacturer-approved replacement part that fits your model.

    Thank you for your question. Replacing the main control board can be a challenge. To replace this board will require removing the top panel to access the compressor compartment. First, disconnect power to the unit. When the top panel is removed, you will be able to see the control box. Remove the front cover to the control box and you will see the main board (see image). The new board should be an exact replacement, so the wire connections should fit back in the same locations. I would recommend making a note of where the wires are connected on the original board to have a reference if needed. I hope this will help you. If you would like more assistance, reply to this thread and I will assist you further.

    This LG refrigerator was DOA- warm inside, no compressor operation, no lights, no nuttin'. Found a blown fuse on the main control board. What took out the fuse: bad board or just a spike on the power line? I show how to check for that.

    The fuses on these LG boards are soldered in and not easily replaceable. But a new fuse can be installed and I show how to do that without even having to remove the board, while it's still installed in the refrigerator.

    CONTROL BOARDS FOR DOMETIC REFRIGERATORS Locate the refrigerator model under the model# column. The Dinosaur Part# is to the right. In some cases, there may be a choice between 2-way or 3-way versions. Order the corresponding number in the left column under the NTP#. Three year warranty registration card included with each board. DE BOARD#: MICRO P-246 PLUS Model#: RM2602, RM2603, RM2802, RM2803, RM3501, RM3601, RM3604, RM4801, RM4804.004, RM4804.005, RM4804.006, RM7030

    3-D Printers. But what if you break a gear or some moving part in your appliance? You are pretty much done for, right? Oh, no - not right. What about the 3-D printer? These things are becoming both cheaper and more accessible each day. Even now, I think you could print out any part you would need for a repair. Ok, I suspect there will be some problems ahead. The manufacturers are probably going to have a fit over people sharing parts data. They will claim that the parts for their washing machine are copyrighted and you can't print out your own. They might even be legally correct (I have no idea). Whether they want it to happen or not, parts will be printable in the near future. And by "near future", I mean now.
    This will be the end of the disposable appliance. I, for one, welcome our 3-D printed Arduino powered appliance Overlords.
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    I just had the same problem as many of you a week or so ago. The fuse is soldered on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). I have a fair amount of electronics training and did have the tools to repair it myself but I understand that most will not. The easiest thing to do is to disconnect the board and bring it to a electronics store and have them solder in fuse clips that fit the fuse that you intend on using (125Volt, 15Amp) this way the next time it blows you will simply be able to pull out the fuse and replace it with your fingers. NOTE...if this is done pls make sure that the fridge is unplugged before you replace the fuse, as this fuse (that most are complaining about) is the main power fuse (F1 on the wiring diagram). Also from experience if the fuse continues to blow over and over, this means you have a problem somewhere else in the fridge. This is what a fuse is for, to protect the

    equipment from doing damage beyond repair. This would be the time to call a tech if you dont know how to troubleshoot more than a visual check. The fuses at a store should be fairly cheap ($5-10 and you will probley have to buy a pack of three). To have a electronic store solder in the clips should also be fairly cheap (this is dependant on who you bring it to manufacturing and how honest they are because it should take no longer than 30 min to solder in the fuse clips) Then simply plug the connectors to the board back in and close everything up and plug the fridge back in. everything should be good to go.

    My fridge is model number LFC23760SB and from what I gather this is a problem with many similar models. In LG's defence they cannot predict when a fuse will blow, sometimes it just happens or like I said before it may be doing its job and blowing because of an another problem with the fridge.
    I hope this helps. I know it saved me $188 on a new PCB. Good Luck

    Step 5: Disconnect the wires

    Document the location of wires attached to the existing temperature control board—you can label them with tape, or take a digital picture.

    1,control board replacement electrolux refrigerator 2,115v ac/60hz. 3.ul certificate. 4.temperature setting:1-8 c. 1, the control is used for electrolux refrigerator. 2. The control shall provide the following functions:. System control. Main functions (compressor, defrost, etc.) and sub functions. Factory and service tests. Other functions necessary for display, entry, i/o, etc. 3, the control will perform a power on reset (por) routine when power is applied. The por. Routine checks for the proper functionality of the control i/o requirements. After the por is. Compete and there is no user input to alter operation the unit shall enter into normal operation. Normal operation means that the unit is functioning as defined. 4, ac voltage. Normal operating range is 115vac 卤15% 60 hz (98 vac minimum, 132 vac. Maximum). 5, temperature display. 6, temperature setting selection. ) for refrigerator units by depressing the up or down buttons. 7, temperature control off mode. 8, switching temp

    display units. To switch between displaying the temperature in manufacturing , press the temp mode key to toggle. Between the two display modes. The control can be set to display temperature settings in either fahrenheit or in manufacturing celsius. 9, alarms. 1, alarm off. 2, high temperature audible and visual alarm management. 3, power loss recovery alarms. 4, power loss alarm arming. 5, power loss alarm activation. 6, high temp alarm. 7, door ajar alarm. 8, c

    Disconnect the wires; if they manufacturing have locking tabs; use a slot screwdriver to release the wires.

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    How long will it take to repair my refrigerator control board?

    Most boards take 1 to 3 days, many take only 1 day. Call for more info if you're concerned about the time.

    Do you offer a warranty with your repair service?

    If your refrigerator is not running or not cooling, you may need to replace the Main Control Board (GE Part # WR55X10942).
    You will need a quarter inch nut driver and a pair of needle nose pliers. Once you have pulled the fridge out far enough to get behind it, disconnect the power cord and make sure any water lines are turned off.
    Remove the nine quarter inch hex screws the hold the access cover. The Main Control Board is located behind it. Remove each of the individual wire harness connections before you attempt to remove the board. Separate each individual plug and wiggle them out. You can use the needle nose pliers. Depress the four plastic mounting tabs holding the board in place.

    Remove the old refrigerator Control Board and mount the new Control Board. Line it up over the four mounting tabs. Reinstall the wire harness and make sure they seat firmly in their sockets. Locate the ground wire with the eyelet so that when you put the cover back on the screw will go through the ground to the chassis.
    With the board back in place, put the access cover back on. Reinstall all nine screws and attach the ground wire. Now that the back panel is attached, push the refrigerator back in place, turn on the water line and connect the power cord.

    Yes, we offer a 1 year warranty on all our refrigerator control board repairs. What this means is that if your board fails anytime within a year, we will repair the item again. That does not inlcude a refund as the board may be too damaged, have a bad processor or something else that cannot be repaired.

    So, in a nutshell - 110 Ohm resistor replaced, all relays on the board checked and found to be good. Cannot check the 47 mFD caps as they would need desoldering, I would guess. But if your guess is that it is one of these caps, I will de-solder and test them. If you think it is something else, I would appreciate advise on what else to check. THe internet just talks of how to replace the board - nothing component level. And swapping a board is no fun - not challenging enough. Also, do these boards suffer from overheating, do you know? They are in the back and covered with a solid metal plate. If lack of cooling is an issue, I would drill some holes in the cover and hope for air circulation to cool it down. Even hook up a computer fan if that would help.

    Our engineering and technical sales department are experienced in industrial refrigeration, fluid pumping, and heat transfer, and work hand-in-hand to deliver the desired results. Our consultative approach to designing solutions for industrial chilling applications has been widely accepted and is largely responsible for our high level of customer satisfaction. Aided by our industry exclusive and proprietary design tools, in combination with advanced 3D CAD systems and years of practical experience, our team is well equipped to provide innovative design solutions incorporating energy conservation, heat recovery, central control & monitoring, and most importantly: Customer Production Efficiency.

    I purchased two LG refrigerators from Home Depot for the two houses that we built last year. Both refrigerators quit working within 6 months of usage. The refrigerator has a control board (sometimes called computer board) installed in the back that has a fuse which is actually soldered on the board and is not removable or replaceable. This particular fuse does not last for more than a few months or sometimes it would blow up just days after your warranty expires. Then you have to deal with the repair company who represents LG in the area. The service company that represents LG in our area was found to be rude, inconsiderant, and showed up late on every appointment. The refrigerators were out of service for over 10 days as the new control board had to be ordered from out of town.

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    To start with we need to start the refrigerator's diagnostic mode. To do this open the refrigerator door and press one or both door switches, depending on your refrigerator type. Next press the refrigerator temperature (+) button three times in ten seconds and release the light switch or switches. This should display an "S" in the freezer display and an "E" in the refrigerator display. Then press the refrigerator temperature (+) button one time to confirm that you want the service mode. You will then see a set of numbers displayed showing the software version for three seconds. (Again this control board is used on many different refrigerators.) After the software version is shown the freezer display should show "1" and the refrigerator display should be blank. Congratulations! Pat yourself on the back, you are now ready to do refrigerator diagnostic magic! Within the refrigerator diagnostic test mode there are 6 diagnostic tests:

    Insert the new temperature control board and engage the locking clips. Reinstall the mounting screws.

    Tip: Before handling the new temperature control board, touch the metal refrigerator cabinet or wear a grounding strap to prevent static discharge from damaging the new control board.

    Step 8: Connect the wires

    Whirlpool frig part no longer made.Yet, searspartsdirect claims they have MANY in stock.
    Foolishly ordered 1 last month, didn't work & returned. When I called to return part & requested a replacement, was told I received "the last part". Still don't have FULL credit back. Called today, they still insist the part is in stock & they have many!
    Part is a Whirlpool control board, #W10162500.STEER CLEAR OF THIS PLACE!!
    Reason of review: Return, Exchange or Cancellation Policy.


    If you are planning to visit the United States, or have friends and family here, shop at Kmart to get everything you want - including gifts for yourself or others. Shopping online in the USA at Kmart couldn't be easier. You can pay for your order in a store or even use an international credit card. Once you place an order, you (or someone you know) can pick it up at a Kmart store, have it shipped or delivered to a U.S. address, and even have it shipped to over 100 countries - whatever is most convenient for you. If you're looking to do some international online shopping, be sure to visit

    Connect the wires to the new temperature control board, using your labels or digital photo as a guide.

    Step 9: Reinstall the covers

    What thread are you talking about? I would like to read it. And it is just a matter of study and curiosity. If it is a peripheral, I would replace it and enjoy the awesome feeling of "I fixed it". That is why I want to know what else to check. If it is a processor, I would just give up.

    Here is the story. The GE Arctica in my house started acting up. So of course, I paid an arm and a leg and the tech replaced the motherboard and evap fan. Upon closer inspection, I found the bad solder joint on the compressor relay in the motherboard. So I re-soldered it and kept it as a spare. I own an older property in Tampa Palms (New Tampa). The tenant was hoping that I would replace her refrigerator which was an old beige colored Kenmore. I found this pristine stainless steel side by side unit on Craigslist. The owner let me have it for free. So I

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    This is a new unused control manufacturing board. We buy these boards surplus from GE. These boards may have been produced then the model of the appliance was discontinued, may have been pulled from a brand new cosmetically damaged appliance, or may have been extra unused stock in the warehouse. These are shipped to us in Gaylord boxes therefore there may be some cosmetic wear however they are tested and fully operational. There are many products that may be compatible with a certain part, it is your responsibility to determine the compatibility. Please do not order a board because it looks like yours. Make sure it is the proper part number for your appliance.

    The control board is found on some Whirlpool built refrigerators with the freezer on the bottom. It can be found in Admiral, Amana, Jenn Air, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and Whirlpool brand refrigerators. This control board controls most manufacturing of the main functions on the refrigerator. It takes the place of a defrost timer and controls the automatic defrost cycle. It also controls the compressor, refrigerator & freezer temperatures, and the evaporator and condenser fan motors.

    PICTURE DISCLAIMER

    If there are multiple quantities of a product your board may vary slightly from the picture. If only one quantity you will receive the board pictured.

    RETURNS

    I got it figured out. I had an LG tech in a few days ago and he told me that the board had failed. He tried to replace the board but the one he had with him was the wrong board. He called me the next day to tell me that the board I need is on back order (surprize surprize). So, I decided to check things out myself. I used my multimeter to discover that despite appearances, one of the fuses had indeed failed. I don't know how to solder electronics but a friend at work is very experienced and offered to help me. I picked up a replacement fuse (package of 5 for $2.49) and a pack of 10 fuse clips ($3.49) and he took out the old fuse and installed the clips and a new fuse. This afternoon I put the board back in the fridge and it sparked back to life. I'm pretty psyched that $6 in parts allowed me to save a very expensive repair and modify my fridge to now have a replaceable fuse like it should have been in the first place. I had asked the tech why LG doesn't make the boards with replaceable fuses because

    soldering them in place seems to defeat the purpose of the fuse. He told me that you don't get a very good connection with fuse clips. Riiiiiiight. That's why every other fused application on the planet uses clips. Anyhow, if anyone else finds this forum and is having the same issue, I highly recommend you do what I did. Even if you have to pay someone to do it, it's gotta be cheaper than replacing the whole board every time it happens and I have no doubt that it will happen again. I'm also going to go out and buy a surge protector for the fridge so hopefully that will help protect it from further power spikes.

    For all of the codes above, the symptoms will be very simply that the refrigerator does not cool at all. Infact, you'll find if you check closely that there is power to your rear power board but no power getting to the AC or LP components. This is because the power board or circuit board is in something referred to as "lock-out mode". This happens when the refrigerator is requesting cool but for some reason or another is not sensing a temperature drop in the refrigerator compartment.

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    Yes, I had purchased two refrigerators with the same model and they both broke within five to seven months of usage. Unfortunately, we too ran out of the warranty as our both refrigerators were purchased for the two houses that my husband built. The house were never sold and the refrigerators were not even plugged in for few months. We ended up using one for our own house and the other one was manufacturing giving to a friend. They both were broken within a few months of usage and I have the most horrible experience of dealing with LG customer service and the repair company that represents LG in the greater Atlanta area. I am seriously thinking about getting together with all the fellow sufferers and contact Home Depot and return out refrigerators. LG will take them back through Homme depot but will refuse to work with us. You may contact me at gmail lipsonjennifer is my id. Another thing I was thinking about was to contact their world headquarter in Seoul, Korea and see if we can get anny help from them.

    This DIY repair guide gives step-by-step instructions for replacing a temperature control board in a refrigerator. The temperature control board—also called the main control board or the PCB board—is next to the compressor, behind the panel on the back of the refrigerator. The temperature control board monitors the temperature sensors and starts the compressor and fans to cool the refrigerator. It also controls the defrost cycle. A failed temperature control board misreads the temperature sensors, causing inconsistent refrigerator temperature—typically too cold. Because other problems can cause the same symptom, a reliable diagnosis requires the expertise of a service technician. If the temperature control board is faulty, replace it with the manufacturer-approved replacement part for your model.

    When I had time, I started trying to troubleshoot and figure out the problem. The first step is always to turn off the power and turn it back on. You never know, that might fix it - but not in this case. After a couple more tests, it seemed clear that the washer was indeed getting power. I had narrowed the problem down to either the control manufacturing board (the computer for the dishwasher) or the front control panel.
    Here is the real problem. I wasn't exactly sure which part was broken. The control panel costs about $100 and the control board has a price around $120. On a gamble, I could order the control panel (pretty sure that's where the problem was), but what if I'm wrong? I could possibly return the piece but the whole process could take a significant amount of time.

    I purchased two LG refrigerators from Home Depot for the two houses that we built last year. Both refrigerators quit working within 6 months of usage. The refrigerator has a control board (sometimes called computer board) installed in the back that has a fuse which is actually soldered on the board and is not removable or replaceable. This particular fuse does not last for more than a few months or sometimes it would blow up just days after your warranty expires. Then you have to deal with the repair company who represents LG in the area. The service company that represents LG in our area was found to be rude, inconsiderant, and showed up late on every appointment. The refrigerators were out of service for over 10 days as the new control board had to be ordered from out of town. This would be my last time I would ever buy any LG appliance, the last refrigerator I owned ran for 13 years without a problem before I donated it to a needy family and it is still running fine. LG refrigerators that I purchased did not even run for 6 months before breaking down with a major part replacement. I will be happy to share the photos of the part that goes bad in most cases, it should really be recalled by the company. If you need more info

    But could you replace the control board in your dishwasher with Arduino? Yup. In fact, someone already did. So, the Arduino can solve the problem of replacing an expensive control board. What if manufacturers just used Arduino to begin with? It might be cheaper for them to create and it would be easier for you to fix. Also, just imagine all the manufacturing cool upgrades you could add to your Arduino-based appliance.
    Why does an oven need a computer in it anyway?

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    Response Rate
    50.0%
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    Controller PCB Assembly Board for Commercial Refrigerator
    US $1-60 / Piece
    1 Piece (Min. Order)
    Min. Hole Size: 0.1mm(4mil)
    Copper Thickness: 0.5oz-6oz
    Min. Line Width: 4mil
    Surface Finishing: HASL,Leadfree HASL,Immersion gold/silver/Tin,OSP,ENIG
    Place of Origin: Guangdong,China (Mainland)
    Model Number: PCBA
    Controller PCB Assembly Board for Commercial Refrigerator
    Shenzhen Kingsheng PCBA Tech. Co., Ltd.
    China (Mainland)
    Transaction Level:
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    Fast 4 layer pcb board,electronic refrigerator pcb board
    US $0.1-5 / Piece
    1 Piece (Min. Order)
    Min. Line Spacing: 0.1mm
    Min. Hole Size: 0.2mm
    Copper Thickness: 0.5 OZ-11OZ (18 um-385 um)
    Number of Layers: 1-20Layers
    Surface Finishing: HAL, HASL(LF), Immersion gold, Gold plating, Gold finger
    Place of Origin: Guangdong,China (Mainland)
    Fast 4 layer pcb board,electronic refrigerator pcb board 6 Photos
    Shenzhen FS Technology Co., Ltd.
    China (Mainland) Trade Assurance
    Transaction Level:
    14 Transactions(6 months)
    20,000+
    Response Rate
    75.5%
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    electronic temperature control pcb board
    US $0.007-3 / Piece
    1 Piece (Min. Order)
    Copper Thickness: 1oz~4oz
    Min. Line Width: 0.08mm
    Place of Origin: Liaoning,China (Mainland)
    Base Material: FR4,FR1,CEM3,Aluminum,Ceramic
    Brand Name: JY
    Model Number: JY PCB
    electronic manufacturing temperature control pcb board
    Dalian JY Electronic Technology Co., Ltd.
    China (Mainland) Trade Assurance
    Transaction Level:
    42 Transactions(6 months)
    500,000+
    Response Rate
    100.0%
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    High quality refrigerator pcb/pcba board printed circuit board

    We have purchased LG refrigerator on 3rd August 2015 through Sharma Videos P.Ltd.Udham Singh Nagar, Kashipur,244713.Invoice No. SVPL/KSP SP/15-16/925 for our company INDIA GLYCOLS LTD.Supplier's Ref.RC NO-54.In this pdt. after 8 months cooling problem started. We have purse through dealer and your technical person attended but problem was not properly done by technical engg. We are continuously manufacturing facing cooling problem/ freezing in this product and intimated to dealer but he is not responding from last 5 months.
    Pl. consider the case on urgent and priority basis. So that we( corporate) trust on your product and services in near future.

    Are there other options? Yes, there are two things to consider. First, I could call the repairman. These guys charge about $150 to come out and then you would have to pay for the part on top of that. No, that's not a good option. Could I just buy a new washer? Yes, a new washer would cost between $250-$300.
    Now you can see why we are in the age of the throw away appliance. Why would you repair an appliance if it is just a little bit more to buy a new one? Even if I did spend $100 to fix my washer, who knows - something else might break next week. In too many cases it's just simpler to buy a new thing than to repair. I think this sucks.
    What ever happened to Luis and Maria's Fix It Shop on Sesame Street? You just don't see places like this anymore. It's not a good business plan since people just buy new appliances when they break. I miss Luis and Maria.


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