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PC Power Supply electronic manufacturing PCB assembly
PC Power Supply electronic manufacturing PCB assembly
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    Power supplies are a frequently misunderstood—and overlooked—PC component. Many users choose a power supply based on total wattage alone, assuming that higher is always synonymous with better. Others pay no attention to their PSU selection at all, and settle for whatever abomination arrived with their machine. But considering how important a good power supply is to a system's stability and long-term reliability, it’s a shame that PSUs get so little attention in comparison to sexier components like graphics cards and SSDs.

    In addition to identifying output power, manufacturers will specify the number of +12V rails their PSUs contain. A “single-rail” power supply has a single, high-power +12V rail for feeding power to hungry system components. A “multi-rail” unit divides its output between two or more +12V rails.

    Unlike some hardware components used with a computer that isn't necessarily needed, as a printer, the power supply is a crucial piece because, without it, the rest of the internal hardware can't function.

    The power supply unit is often abbreviated as PSU and is also known as a power pack or power converter.

    Motherboards, cases, and power supplies electronic manufacturing all come in different sizes called form factors. All three must be compatible to work properly together.

    A PSU is not usually user serviceable. For your safety, it's usually wise to never open a power supply unit.

    CoolMax and Ultra are the most popular PSU makers but most are included with a computer purchase so you only deal with this when replacing one.

    In a single-rail design, all of the power from the supply will be available to any component connected to the unit, regardless of the connector or cable used. In the event of a failure, however, a single-rail power supply has the potential to shoot much more current into your components.

    Meanwhile, the main disadvantage of a multi-rail PSU is that it can't share power among the different rails. For example, if you connect 25 amps' worth of components to a +12V rail with a 20-amp maximum rating, the mismatch will trigger an overcurrent protection (OCP) mechanism and shut down, even though other rails my be available with plenty of power to spare. Consequently, with a multi-rail PSU you must pay attention to which components you've plugged in to which rail, a mild nuisance that you don't have to worry about with a single-rail power supply.

    In modern computers, the newer EPS electrical standard replaces the older ATX standard, with an 8-pin 12-volt connector delivering power directly to the CPU and a 24-pin main connector powering the rest of the board. The newer EPS connectors are backwards compatible with the older ATX standard and many manufacturers make it so the extra four pins can be separated from the main connector for an easier fit into the old 20-pin ATX and 4-pin CPU headers.

    If, however, you want to run a 2-way SLI/CrossFire setup with two high-end video cards, then a solid 850W power supply will do the trick. And, these units will give you plenty of headroom to build a ridiculous setup.

    It should be noted, too, that while the EVGA SuperNOVA T2 is listed here, the electronic manufacturing EVGA SuperNOVA P2 is excluded. It’s not that the P2 version isn’t a good power supply… in fact, it’s a very solid option…

    However, it doesn’t have the quite the efficiency that the T2 has and, so, in order to include the best, I went with the T2 option instead. But, if you’re looking to save some money, the P2 line is a good choice as well.

    It is very important to keep in mind that all switching PSUs have been designed so as to deliver their maximum efficiency at about half-load (50% of their rated maximum capacity). The efficiency of a PSU at any given moment is tied to how many components it is powering (known as load), decreasing not only at higher loads but at lower loads as well. This is especially true at the low-end of the loading curve, usually below 15% of the unit's rated capacity, where efficiency outright plummets.

    Ok, so your power supply fan has started making that BRRRrrrrRRRRrrrrrRRRRrrRRRRrrrr noise, and it's running slow.
    Maybe the fan has stopped altogether.
    Taking your computer to the shop is expensive, and most just replace the power supply anyway.

    Well, here's the quick fix that you can do with things you may already have - and WITHOUT screwdrivers!
    Done right, the repair takes under a minute, and can increase the life of a fan by years.

    It is wise to remember that the advertised performance of a PSU is within a specific load range (20% to 100% of its rated capacity) and the manufacturer is not obliged to include information on how much the performance degrades at sub-20% load conditions. Only the 80Plus Titanium guidelines dictate an efficiency requirement of 90% at 10% load. Therefore, if the goal is efficiency, the selection of a severely oversized PSU to combat the issue is both economically and practically senseless.

    That being said, the selection of a PSU is based on both objective (e.g. wattage, performance) and subjective (e.g. design, modular cables) parameters. Therefore it is required of every user to be capable of making at least an educated guess about the power requirements of the system. Users frequently overrate the power requirements of their systems electronic manufacturing greatly. It is not uncommon for people - even store salespersons and experienced builders - to recommend a 1kW unit to a user with just two (or even one) high-performance GPUs.

    Modern high-powered graphics processing units do the same thing, resulting in most of the power requirement of a modern personal computer being on the +12 V rail. When high-powered GPUs were first introduced, typical ATX power supplies were "5 V-heavy", and could only supply 50–60% of their output in the form of 12 V power. Thus, GPU manufacturers, to ensure 200–250 W of 12 V power (peak load, CPU+GPU), recommended power supplies of 500–600 W or higher. More modern ATX power supplies can deliver almost all (typically 80–90%) of their total rated capacity in the form of +12 V power.

    HX and HXi Series power supply units are designed for gaming rigs, overclocking systems, and any PC where rock-solid stability is essential. 80 PLUS Platinum efficiency certification means the PSU operates cool, quiet and efficiently. HXi Series models take it even further with Corsair Link monitoring and control, and upgraded fans.

    Because of this change, it is important to consider the +12 V supply capacity, rather than the overall power capacity, when using an older ATX power supply with a more recent computer.

    Power supplies are also often rated in terms of their efficiency, with higher quality units certified at higher 80 PLUS rating levels. These efficiency ratings enable Tom’s Hardware readers to take a similar system configuration from one of our builds, read the wall socket power draw that we report, and then calculate the required output power by applying one of the 80 PLUS efficiency ratings. For example, a build that pulls 647 W from the wall socket and that is rated at 85% efficiency will need a 550 W-rated unit (647W x 0.85). From there, if you add a little extra capacity for USB-powered peripherals and future drive upgrades, a high quality 600W unit should do the job.

    Despite common misconceptions, power supply and motherboard factors have almost nothing to do with each other. The ATX motherboard form factor refers to its size rather than how it’s wired, and the ATX standard for power supplies refers to what connections are offered and how much power they can handle. ATX-compliant power supplies come in several sizing standards that include PS/2, PS3, SFX, TFX, and other less common proprietary formats.

    Low-quality power supply manufacturers sometimes take advantage of this overspecification by assigning unrealistically high power supply ratings, knowing that very few customers fully understand power supply ratings.[1]

    balanced with bleeder resistors and varistors that were necessary in the upper input voltage range, around 230 V. Connecting the unit configured for the lower range to a higher-voltage grid usually resulted in an immediate permanent damage. When the power factor correction (PFC) was required, those filter capacitors were replaced with higher-capacity ones, together with a coil installed in series to delay the inrush current. This is the simple design of a passive PFC.

    Active PFC is more complex and can achieve higher PF, up to 99%. The first active PFC circuits just delayed the inrush. Newer ones are working as an input and output condition-controlled step-up converter, supplying a single 400 V filter capacitor from a wide-range input source, usually between 80 and 240 V. Newer PFC circuits also replace the NTC-based inrush current limiter, which is an expensive part previously located next to the fuse.

    There's also a fan opening at the back of the power supply that sends air out the back of the computer case.

    PSUs with an output between 600 and 800 Watts are very popular amongst electronic manufacturing gamers and overclockers. They are powerful enough for dual GPU gaming systems and provide enough overhead for serious overclocking and mods. This power band is also popular among users that will be using just one GPU, as the power overhead frequently creates a feeling of security.

    If you are seeking to combine performance with value, the Rosewill Hive 750W is a PSU that you cannot go wrong with. Rosewill nearly halved the price since our first review of the 850W version last year, which performed well but at the time cost a little too much. It may be a visually mundane product, but the current retail price of $55 is a steal for a quality 750W PSU.

    The side of the PSU facing outside the case has a male, three-pronged port that a power cable, connected to a power source, plugs into.
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    There is no single, universal rule for selecting a high-quality power supply. Nevertheless, various indicators provide circumstantial evidence of PSU quality, and some guidelines are generally helpful.

    First, always buy a power supply from a reputable manufacturer, and look for reviews of it before you buy. Avoid cheap, generic power supplies, which tend to be substandard. Look for reputable brands that offer solid electronic manufacturing warranties and support. Corsair, Seasonic, and Antec are three manufacturers with reputations for producing high-quality power supplies, though even they may offer a few duds among all the studs. Do your homework!

    For example, if the maximum power or combined TDP (total design power) of your system’s present components is 300 watts, a 600-watt PSU would be a good fit. In a high-end system loaded with components that may peak collectively at 700 watts, a 1200-watt PSU would work well. You can get by with lower-capacity units if you don’t think you’ll ever need to expand your system, but if you can afford it, choosing a higher-capacity PSU is a better bet.

    Outervision and Thermaltake's handy-dandy PSU wattage calculator invites you to input your build components in exacting detail—right down to CPU overclocking voltages and specific water-cooling components—and then spits out a ballpark power-supply wattage for your system.

    On the subject of wattage, one common power-supply myth holds that higher-wattage power supplies necessarily consume more power. Untrue. All else being equal, a 500-watt power supply won't consume any less power than a 1000-watt unit. That's because a system's components—not its PSU—dictate its power consumption. If you have 300 watts' worth of components in a system, the system will consume 300 watts under load, regardless of whether the system is outfitted with a 500-watt power supply or a 1000-watt one. Again, a PSU’s wattage rating indicates the maximum amount of power the unit can provide to your system’s components, not how much power it consumes from the outlet.

    The VS Series offers high quality with 80 PLUS efficiency at an affordable price. The VS Series has many upgrades from traditional designs. It is black with black cable sleeving and black connectors; and the large diameter, thermally controlled fan is nearly silent when running at lower loads. And the DC to DC rails ensures compatibility with newer CPUs’ low power sleep states.

    Your PC's power supply is one of the most vital components on your machine. The power supply, as its name implies, feeds electrical current into your PC, allowing it to operate. A poorly functioning power supply will cause your entire computer to shut down. Regular power supply cleaning is important to ensuring a long power supply lifespan. Generally speaking, you should clean your power supply at least every 2 to 3 months. If you want to clean it even more regularly, feel free to do so; there is no such thing as a power supply that is too clean. If your computer makes a grinding noise as it powers up or shuts down, it can serve as a good indicator that you're well overdue for power supply maintenance.

    If you are able to measure the actual power requirements of your system, keep in mind that you should not buy a unit that will frequently operate near its maximum capacity. Just as you would not run your car constantly near the red line, a power supply should not be under maximum stress for prolonged periods. A high-quality PSU can withstand it, but just because it can does not mean it should. Again, all switching PSUs deliver their maximum efficiency at roughly 50% of their rated capacity. Running a PSU at over 90% capacity for prolonged periods of time will not only reduce its performance but it will also make it hotter, louder, and decrease its expected lifespan.

    With that in mind, while the recommendations of the online tools and calculators may be overestimated, they're not overly so. Selecting a unit of the wattage they recommend is not usually a bad idea, as the recommendation usually is twice the actual power requirements of the system. The common mistake is that users usually seek to buy a significantly more powerful unit, thinking that having extra power helps, and end up with a severely oversized PSU for their system that will be both more expensive to purchase and will not operate at its peak efficiency.

    Finally, getting to our recommendations, for easier reading we will split our recommendations into five main wattage categories with at least two units for each. One selection will be based on the maximum possible value (e.g. bang for the buck) and one will focus on the best overall performance.

    Manufacturers usually list their power supplies' output in watts. A higher-watt PSU can supply more power. Desktop power supplies have a power output rating of from 200 watts to 1800 watts (for ultra-high-end, enthusiast-class products). Wattage ratings higher than that would exceed the capabilities of a typical 15-ampere electrical outlet. The important number here is the one for sustained or continuous power, not the one for peak power. Most power supplies can operate at peak power for only brief periods.

    It converts the alternating electronic manufacturing current (AC) into a continuous form of power that the computer components need in order to run normally, called direct current (DC). It also regulates overheating by controlling voltage, which may change automatically or manually depending on the power supply.

    Even less common than its PS/2 and SFX cousins, the TFX form factor is a special format that enables manufactures to make narrower cases by trading width for depth. TFX power supplies aren’t all that common and are usually relegated to being used in small HTPC or other proprietary form factor cases.

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    psu 1000w pc power supply, bit coin power ,mining power
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    If there is any one component that is absolutely vital to the operation of a computer, it is the power supply. Without it, a computer is just an inert box full of plastic and metal. The power supply converts the alternating current (AC) line from your home to the direct current (DC) needed by the personal computer. In this article, we'll learn how PC power supplies work and what the wattage ratings mean.

    In a personal computer (PC), the power supply is the metal box usually found in a corner of the case. The power supply is visible from the back of many systems because it contains the power-cord receptacle and the cooling fan.

    Technically, a power supply with hard-wired cabling is optimal because it requires no additional connections between the unit’s internal PCB and the connector that will ultimately be plugged into one of your components. One end of the cable is soldered into the PSU’s electronic manufacturing PCB and the other end terminates in a standard connector, with no breaks in the line. Whenever you introduce an additional connection between the PSU and your components—as happens with modular power supplies—you add more resistance and another potential point of failure into the line; and any increase in resistance translates into lost efficiency.

    The power supply unit is mounted just inside the back of the case. If you follow the computer's power cable, you'll find that it attaches to the back of the power supply.

    Each build is going to have its own unique power needs, but generally it all boils down to two things: overall wattage, and rail specific power. Overall wattage deals with how much overall power a system needs in order to function. There are several power supply calculators available on the web that can help in determining your needs, though some of them are updated more often than others. The most important thing to remember if you’re questioning how much power you need is that oversized units can easily power undersized systems, but not the other way around, so it’s best to aim high and overshoot. Oversize power supplies can also be useful down the road if you electronic manufacturing plan to upgrade your system, as they can avoid the need to purchase a newer, larger unit.

    It's the backside that's usually the only portion of the power supply that most people will ever see.

    This standby voltage is generated by a smaller power supply inside the unit. In older PSU designs, it was used to supply the voltage regulator, located on the low-voltage side of the transformer, allowing the regulator to measure output voltages. The regulator controls the switching transistors insulated by optocouplers or pulse transformers. The standby power source was a small linear power supply with conventional transformer, which was later changed to a switching power supply, sharing some components of the main unit due to cost- and energy-saving requirements. This 5VSB (Five Volts StandBy) power output feeds devices operating in standby or power off is

    The 80 Plus™ mark certifies products that have more than 80% energy efficiency at 20%, 50% and 100% of rated load and a power factor of 0.9 or greater at 100% load. Then if you want to keep your cabling tidy, a modular unit helps remove unnecessary clutter and leaves your case interior free and clear. With Novatech's extensive range of brands and our own Powerstation Black units, you'll find a PSU to suit your needs with us.

    The green wire, pin 14, is the on/off switching line. To turn the power supply on, the green line needs to be shorted to a Common line. An easy way to do this is to insert a jumper between pin 14 and pin 13.

    Most power supplies require a load across one or more of the outputs to operate. The link I give above shows how to add a resistor across the 5 volt side of the supply to act as a load.

    The smaller connectors coming out of the power supply use the same color codes. As an example, a connector with a yellow, a red and two black wires will have +12 volts (yellow), +5 volts (red) and two commons.

    To use the power supply, for 12 volts, you'd connect a yellow wire to the + input of your project and a black wire to the - input. For 5 volts, you connect a red wire to the + and a black wire to the -.

    This power range should be reserved for users that want to power high-end dual or triple GPU computers. We cannot go very cheap in this power range because we believe that long-term reliability is an absolute must whether we are considering a high-end gaming system or a professional workstation.

    There aren’t a whole lot of gamers out there who will ever have the need to use a power supply larger than 1000W in their gaming computers.

    Really, the power supplies in this range are monsters and are best suited for enthusiasts looking to build extreme setups.

    So, if you’re not looking to run 3-way or 4-way SLI/CrossFire and overclock your CPU and video card to record-breaking levels, there really isn’t need for such a large power supply.

    However, if you are one of the few immortals that require enough power to run a small village, then these 1000W+ units will serve you well.

    Our first recommendation for an inexpensive, yet reliable PSU in this price range would be the Corsair CS850M. There are several other high-quality units selling around the retail price of the CS850M, but this is one of the very few 80Plus Gold certified units below $100 with that kind of power output, perfectly combining performance, quality and value.

    Again, unless you’re planning on running multiple video card configurations now or in the future and getting into some extreme system tuning, there really isn’t a need for this much power.

    Should’ve put the actual +12V output for the PSUs with the multiple +12V rails instead of the OCP set point for each +12V rail. Then you would know the actual +12V output capability of the PSU and realize electronic manufacturing that PSUs like the Seasonic S12II and M12II are NOT as good of a choice as a newer PSU. Also, if you understood PSU topology, you’d know that some of these PSUs are old and use very old technology that results in lower regulation and ripple

    performance. The Seasonic S12II and M12II were relatively great PSUs 8 to 9 years ago when they were reviewed, but aren’t up to snuff anymore and is why they’re being dumped on the market for half the price they once were. This argument is a constant struggle for me, being someone who has reviewed PSUs for so long. I’ll see people recommend old Seasonic or old Antecs on Reddit and when I say they’re not good choices compared to a Corsair RMx or BitFenix Whisper or Seasonic G-Series, I’m confronted with “but you gave it a 10!!!!” Yeah…. I gave it a 10 almost a decade ago!

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    The 3.3- and 5-volts are typically used by digital circuits, while the 12-volt is used to run motors in disk drives and fans. The main specification of a power supply is in watts. A watt is the product of the voltage in volts and the current in amperes or amps. If you have been around PCs for many years, you probably remember that the original PCs had large red toggle switches that had a good bit of heft to them. When you turned the PC on or off, you knew you were doing it. These switches actually controlled the flow of 120 volt power to the power supply.

    Today you turn on the power with a little push button, and you turn off the machine with a menu option. These capabilities were added to standard power supplies several years ago. The operating system can send a signal to the power supply to tell it to turn off. The push button sends a 5-volt signal to the power supply to tell it when to turn on. The power supply also has a circuit that supplies 5 volts, called VSB for "standby voltage" even when it is officially "off", so that the button will work. See the next page to learn more about switcher technology.

    However, I attempted to look at this from a price-to-performance angle and my thinking is that at ~$50 for the SeaSonic M12II SS-620GM2, the money saved could allow a budget builder the chance to jump up in video cards, or electronic manufacturing give them some more wiggle room to add an SSD to their build.

    Obviously, I’ve left a lot of good units off of this list and the list isn’t perfect, but my goal was to offer a handful of options in each range that varied in performance and price and made sense in different scenarios. I understand your argument, though, especially considering your extensive experience testing power supplies, and I agree that some of the options in here aren’t the absolute best power supplies in their range.

    I’ve gotten used to attempting to put together part lists that maximize every penny of a budget towards getting the best video card possible (without sacrificing too much in other important areas), so from my perspective, I say… why not go with a SS-620GM2 over something like a BitFenix whisper, if it means I can get a GTX 1070 instead of a GTX 1060?

    I guess my question to you would be, what is the real-world difference between two identical builds, where one build runs a PSU with older technology (like the SS-620GM2), versus the same build that runs a PSU built on newer technology?

    Initially, this was supplied by the main +5 V supply, but as power demands increased, the high currents required to supply sufficient power became problematic. To reduce the power losses in the 5 V supply, with the introduction of the Pentium 4 microprocessor, Intel changed the processor power supply to operate on +12 V, and added the separate four-pin P4 connector to the new ATX12V 1.0 standard to supply that power.

    If you are able to measure the actual power requirements of your system, keep in mind that you should not buy a unit that will frequently operate near its maximum capacity. Just as you would not run your car constantly near the red line, a power supply should not be under maximum stress for prolonged periods. A high-quality PSU can withstand it, but electronic manufacturing just because it can does not mean it should. Again, all switching PSUs deliver their maximum efficiency at roughly 50% of their rated capacity. Running a PSU at over 90% capacity for prolonged periods of time will not only reduce its performance but it will also make it hotter, louder, and decrease its expected lifespan.

    Now, going on about a 45 degree angle from one of the upper holes, punch the needle through the sticker and rubber grommet and squeeze in some oil.
    If there is no rubber grommet, the oil may start to leak out the hole you just made...as soon as it does, remove the needle.
    If there is a rubber grommet, just squeeze oil in and remove the syringe as you do so. The grommet will seal up as soon as the needle comes out.

    Now power up the unit, and let the oil work its way into the bearing.
    Fans with rubber grommets last years after doing this. Those without vary in how long they last afterwards - but hey, you can just do it again down the road!
    If you can manage to get some tape over the hole you made, it'll last longer than if you don't.

    If the fan is one that has completely seized up, you'll need to move the blades back and forth until the fan starts to spin on it's own. I find a Popsicle stick is good for this procedure.

    With that in mind, while the recommendations of the online tools and calculators may be overestimated, they're not overly so. Selecting a unit of the wattage they recommend is not usually a bad idea, as the recommendation usually is twice electronic manufacturing the actual power requirements of the system. The common mistake is that users usually seek to buy a significantly more powerful unit, thinking that having extra power helps, and end up with a severely oversized PSU for their system that will be both more expensive to purchase and will not operate at its peak efficiency.

    Finally, getting to our recommendations, for easier reading we will split our recommendations into five main wattage categories with at least two units for each. One selection will be based on the maximum possible value (e.g. bang for the buck) and one will focus on the best overall performance.

    Even a power supply in the 800W-1000W range is going to be overkill for 90% of gamers.

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    generated by this small circuit, which replaced a small conventional transformer or startup circuit for the main voltage regulator, until it can generate power output, in some designs feeding itself and substituting the 5VSB. For this reason, a detected shoutcut may cause to wait up to an hour, until it can successful power up again. This meantime is defined by the grid side located filter capacitors have been discharged by the installed bleeding resistors.

    Unscrew and remove your computer's access panel. Generally speaking, PCs have 1 main, large access panel. It is located at different positions, depending on your computer's model. The access panel is easy to identify; it is basically a large removable sheet of metal or plastic screwed onto your PC's main body.

    A computer can tolerate slight differences in power, but a significant deviation will cause the computer's power supply to fail. A UPS protects a computer against four different power problems.

    Find the power supply by looking for the place that your computer's power cable goes into. The power supply is also recognizable because of the large fan it contains. This fan is visible both on the inside and outside of the computer. Its external, grated face will typically be about the size of a compact disc.

    Or, you technically could put a high-end video card in a system with a low-end power supply, but it probably won’t work and it’s possible that you could damage your system and destroy your other components.


    So, even though your gaming power supply won’t give you a higher framerate or allow you to play on a 1440p monitor, it’s still one of the most important components in your system. Therefore, you need to take your time in order to make sure that you choose a high-quality gaming computer power supply.

    In this post, we will take a look at the best gaming power supplies in 2017. I’ve broken down the categories into wattage mainly because there are a ton of different PSU tier lists out there and I feel like it would be easier for builders to search by the wattage they need. So, there are four different categories: the best power supplies over 1000W, the best power supplies between 800W-1000W, the best power supplies between 600W-800W, and the best power supplies between 400W-600W.

    There are multiple options for each wattage range, but know that this list doesn’t include every quality power supply out there. Some have been omitted, not because they aren’t quality units, but rather in order to keep this list from getting out of control. I will continue to update this list on a regular basis to ensure that choosing a power supply is easy as possible.

    Use a 12-oz. can of compressed air with a nozzle to blow dust and dirt off the power supply. Hold the nozzle about 2 inches from the surface you're cleaning and always blow from the inside of the PC outward. Blow the air through the natural holes and air channels of the power supply's fan, shooting dust out of the PC. Dust for about 1 to 2 minute, using short bursts of air.

    Power supplies designed for worldwide use were equipped with an input voltage selector switch that allowed the user to configure the unit for use on local power grid. In the lower voltage range, around 115 V, this switch is turned on changing the power grid voltage rectifier into a voltage doubler in delon circuit design. As a result, the large primary filter capacitor behind that rectifier was split up into two capacitors wired in series,

    As transistors become smaller on chips, it becomes preferable to operate them on lower supply voltages, and the lowest supply voltage is often desired by the densest chip, the central processing unit. In order to supply large amounts of low-voltage power to the Pentium and subsequent microprocessors, a special power supply, the voltage regulator module began to be included on motherboards. Newer processors require up to 100 A at 2 V or less, which is impractical to deliver from off-board power supplies.

    RMx and RMi series power supplies are built with premium components for great performance with very low noise. They’re 80 PLUS Gold certified and give you extremely tight voltage regulation with virtually silent operation. With all Japanese 105°C capacitors, they’re a great choice for high performance PCs where reliability is essential. The fully modular cable set makes installations and swaps easy. And with the RMi’s Link compatibility, you’re able to monitor and control aspects of your power supply, never before available to users.

    The diagram at right shows the main output connector of the power supply when viewed from the end. The colors represent the different colored wires going into it. Common colors represent common functions, ie all red wires are +5 volts, all black wires are common and so on. The connections most useful to us as haunters are the +5V (red wires) , +12V (yellow wire) and the Common or ground (black wires). Both 5 and 12 volt lines normally deliver ample current for our needs.

    Of the other voltages available, the +3.3V connection delivers ample current, it's just not a very useful voltage. The +5VSB (5 volts, always on), -12V and -5V are normally very low current lines and are of little use to us.

    The humble computer power supply unit (PSU) is very often overlooked when upgrading or building a PC. However, if the PSU is underpowered for all the components then this can lead to instability or crashes. Modern Graphics Cards especially can require quite a hefty power supply, so ensure you choose one which more than covers the wattage required of all of your components. Then to save on those costly energy bills it's worth going for an 80 Plus™ bronze rated unit.

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    This is a typical sleeve bearing fan. The shaft fits very snug inside a "tube" or sleeve.
    The shaft as it rotates glides inside the bearing on an extremely thin layer of lubricant.

    The lubricant is held in by a rubber grommet (plug) under the sticker on the fan. Some don't even have the rubber grommet, and just the sticker holds the lubricant in.

    The problem is, eventually this lubricant escapes, suffers viscosity breakdown, or just dries up. Please note that vegetable or olive oils will suffer viscosity breakdowns faster than oils that are meant to be lubricants.

    If you have removed the power supply, opened it up, and removed the fan, you can oil it in this area, then put the grommet (if it exists) and sticker back in place.

    There is also often a power switch and a power supply voltage switch.

    Larger, heavier units are preferable to puny, lightweight models. Higher-quality power supplies almost always use bigger and better capacitors, chokes, and other internal components, and they come outfitted with larger heatsinks for superior heat dissipation—all of which translates into more weight. Larger cooling fans, which typically move more air while making less noise than smaller fans, are another plus.

    It doesn’t help that the power-supply market is awash with products from unscrupulous manufacturers that use substandard components and overstate the hardware’s capabilities. Indeed, the abundance of PSU-related misinformation and deception in the marketplace would be comical if it weren’t so harmful to consumers. But finding a solid, efficient power supply is possible if you arm yourself with the right knowledge. We can help.


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