dishwasher control board PCB assembly electronic manufacturing

dishwasher control board PCBA turnkey assembly Manufacturing

dishwasher control board PCBA turnkey assembly Manufacturing
This repair guide gives step-by-step instructions for replacing a dishwasher electronic control board. The electronic control board runs all the dishwasher's functions—filling, washing, drying and draining—which can make it difficult to pinpoint the control board as the source of a problem. Refer to the tech sheet for diagnostic tests (it's usually behind the service panel below the door) or have a service technician test the control board. If the electronic control board is faulty, replace it with a manufacturer-approved replacement part.

Let’s get properly started now the...the first thing to do is to loosen the lower door skin, which you do by removing the screws on the back (There is no need to remove them completely, just loosen them as much as you can)

With you loosening these screws that hold the lower door skin in place, it will give you enough room to be able to then proceed to remove the top control panel. Again this is done by undoing the screws that are currently holding it in place.

eSpares Top Tip: We have left this final screw till last for a specific reason - it is keeping the two panels together. Once this screw is removed, you will be able to lift up the door and gently ease the control panel away (When removed you can just let it rest against the door - but making sure not to scratch the fascia)

After doing my homework, it would appear that the control panel on my 8-year-old GE Profile Dishwasher PDW9280J00SS has gone out. The dishwasher seemed to stop mid-cycle so there's water in the bottom and no response from the control panel. I checked the air gap to see if it was clogged. It wasn't. I checked the circuit breaker... it was fine (although I reset it just to be sure). I consider myself to be a pretty handy mom, but I don't want to jump in to replacing the control panel if it's just beyond me. Can someone tell me if this is something I should try to tackle or would I be better off calling a service technician? Also, is this normal that it would go out after 8 years? BTW the door spring also broke, which I'll have to replace (but I feel comfortable doing that).

I used to love the Maytag brand. My old dishwasher lasted more than 20 years when I replace it with a new one a year and half ago. You can't be wrong choosing a Maytag, I thought. But I was deadly wrong.

Install the new control board, securing it using the mounting screws from the old control board.

Transfer the cables from the old control board to the new control board.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Roper, Admiral, Maytag, Hardwick, Jenn-Air, Estate, Magic Chef, Crosley, Inglis, Norge, Modern Maid, Amana, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Caloric, & IKEA.

Possible Repair Solution For:
Will not start, not washing properly, will not fill, will not drain, will not dry, cycles are too long, cycles are too short, buttons will not respond.

Please Note: This is intended as a guideline only, as other items can cause the same symptoms.

This part is also known as a main control board.

According to plaintiffs in the litigation, the electronic control boards of certain Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Kenmore dishwashers manufactured between October 2000 and January 2006 overheated, ignited, or emitted smoke, sparks, or fumes—and stopped working. They further charged that the defendants breached warranties, were negligent, and violated various state consumer-protection statutes.

As part of the dishwasher fire settlement, the defendants deny that the dishwashers in question have any defect or pose any unreasonable safety or fire hazard. They also deny having violated any law or engaged in any wrongdoing. Nevertheless, any current or former owner of one of the dishwashers listed in the settlement website can receive a cash rebate from Whirlpool of 10 to 30 percent, depending on circumstances, when purchasing a new KitchenAid, Kenmore, or Whirlpool dishwasher.

BTW, I also tested the door switches and they are both good.

As far as the control board I bought, since the new one won't even allow me to run diagnostic mode and the display no longer came on, I figured something must be wrong with it. The store is refunding my money. However, before I tried to replace the keypad or get another board, I was trying to see if I was performing my testing correctly. The parts aren't cheap, but I did find 2 online retailers that will allow you to "try out" the electronic parts and send them back for a full refund if it doesn't fix your problem.

4) You cannot diagnose a circuit board by poking around with a test meter.

5) You replaced the control board with a new one and still the dishwasher does not work.
Conclusion:
(a) The new control board is malfunctioning
(b) The new control board is OK and the problem lies somewhere else.

6) You are now stuck with a broken dishwasher and a useless control board.

7) If I were a service person, I would be charging $150/hr to provide the information I have given you so far. Fortunately, advice given on AAC is free.

My biggest issue is that I did not want to have to go through
all this again and deal with more corrosion.
So my approach was different than many in the comments who had more
trouble down the road. First off (pics
for reference included), I attached the panel back to the dishwasher after
cleaning but prior to sealing the ribbon cable, to test each and every
button. When it worked flawlessly, I
knew I was ready to seal it.

Sealing was two steps for me.
Step one, I used a green liquid electrical tape (there are many colors
at home depot but this I felt matched well for the job). It was advertised as 5 min drying and
waterproof. I did three coats on each
side of the cable, using and hairdryer on low heat or cool between each coat
and letting each coat dry completely. I
did not want to potentially trap any water in between. Pay extra care to the edges of the

After some research on the web, I found the wire glue which might work, but then had mixed review from users. At the same time I found the "Rear window defrogger repair kit" by Permatex and I though that it would work. I bought a kit from the local auto part store (advanceauto) and found a tiny bottle inside this big box. It wasn't clear whether this would actually work on a flexible plastic cable.

KitchenAid Dishwasher Control Board Replacement #8051136

This video provides step-by-step repair instructions for replacing the control board on a KitchenAid dishwasher. The most common reasons for replacing the control board are when the dishwasher buttons don’t work, the dispenser doesn’t work, or the dishwasher won’t start.

All of the information for this dishwasher control board replacement video is applicable to the following brands:
KitchenAid, Whirlpool, Kenmore
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I can get my board replaced under warranty, but that will be little comfort. I also tested the heater circuit between the door lock and the back of the melted connector. It tested at 13.5 ohms, on the low end of the range but in spec (and I would think good).

Based on the websites and articles, I'm guessing others have seen this before and what they did to enhance the reliability of the circuit board. I don't have months to haggle with WHR and nor the $ for a new one. Given the health of the overall circuit - what is causing the burning and what can be done to correct it?

We moved into our current house around 3 years ago, and have a Bosch dishwasher (SMU50E15AU) that is around 3½ years old. It's been behaving weirdly for a little while, stopping mid cycle etc. Then a week ago it went to another level and would often not turn on or stay on for long at all. Finally it stopped getting power altogether. I had an appliance guy come out (I'd never used him before), he said the computer/control board was stuffed, and it's $450+ to replace, probably not worth replacing and to buy a new one.

Sounds expensive to me. I'm tempted to get a 2nd opinion, but given every time ya get a guy out to take a look it's nearly $100 just in call out fees, I don't want to do it if the first guy is right. Besides, we were never 100% thrilled with the Bosch in the first place. Quite often our dishes weren't clean.

After reading through the comments, I decided the best
approach would be to really take my time and use a magic eraser. I decided to try and keep the touchkey panel
glued on, and use wedges made from folded paper towel to try and get all the
corrosion off the ribbon cable. I didn’t
want to risk breaking the panel during the removal process and worse they never
glue back on exactly like I want. A
little water (no soap or chemicals) on the magic eraser and about 45 mins of
scrubbing later, you can see the results in my pictures. The back of the cable had a bit of corrosion
as well under the sticker, so I removed the sticker and carefully did both sides. I didn’t want to wear all the way through the
cable.

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This is the problematic dishwasher I have. It’s a Maytag (so much for never needed a repairman…). The control panel on the front of it died, it failed from corrosion getting into the laminated plastic PCB that it’s made up of. Not really repairable, just meant to be replaced, except that it’s a $150 part. From what I could find online, it seems to be a common failure, so why buy an overpriced part that’s just going to fail all over again?

This is one of the things I love about the Arduino, it allows me to consider alternatives that I’d have NEVER been able to consider before. If I had to program a controller in assembly, or flat do it with just discrete chips, I’d have never considered this as an option. But with the Arduino, not only can I build my own controller, but it’s almost stupidly simple to do.

Remove the old thermal fuse from the old control board by unclipping it from the side of the board using a flat-head screwdriver. Connect the thermal fuse to the side of the new control panel.

Connect the control panel ribbon connector to the side of the control board and plug the rinse aid sensor wire into the rear of the control panel if necessary.

Lower the moisture shield back into place, then replace the control panel and secure using the screws that were originally removed.

We have several boards, the one you receive may vary slightly from the one pictured.

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PCB’s are otherwise know as control boards, or manufacturing modules, and if you need to replace the one on your dishwasher just look at the following video.

The underside of the controller board. The large chip is the MCU (Renesas 6433662B94H). The triacs near the connector at the bottom of the photo are a 4 Amp STMicroelectronics T4-0560 (large triac on left) and 5 smaller triacs: Z7SY424 (also ST Microelectronics, but sorry can't find the datasheet). The triacs are located on the neutral (N) side of the load so the inputs to these triacs float at 230V AC when off.

Not all Kitchenaids have this feature, but sometimes you can temporarily resolve the issue by manufacturing doing a “key dance.” The most common reset code is “high temp wash - energy saver air dry.” Repeat three times. This resets the control board after a “blinking clean light” fault code. We get the fault code when the dishwasher does not sense a certain temperature rise in a certain number of minutes with the wash motor and heater having power.

If this key dance “fixes” your dishwasher, it still needs to be looked at to find why the fault code occurred. Possibilities are:

No fill/low fill
Wash motor not running
Heater not running
Water flow restricted due to debris in the sump.
If you can select a cycle but the dishwasher simply won't start, you might have a failed touch pad.

I don't know what the 8 pin IC to the left of the MCU is – I'm guessing an EEPROM. The microswitch is the "Delayed Start" front panel button. The connector at the top-right connects the LEDs and switches on the left side of the dishwasher's front panel. The large traces at the bottom left provide power for the water heater.

The FTC cable is part of the touch key panel so there is no way to just replace the cable. What's worse is that the cable is paper-thin and you can see through it. I initially tried to use solder iron and ended up with some holes. So the old fashioned way of fixing broken wires doesn't work with the printed circuit on the FTC cable.
I was quoted $450 dollars by a "home repair"
technician (my wife insisted on calling) to replace the entire control board
and the touch keys. I found this DIY fix it after kicking him out and opening
up the dishwasher myself and seeing the obviously corroded ribbon cable on my
touchkey panel as manufacturing you can see in the picture.

Apologize if this topic is covered, but the search function seems to be down right now (zero results on "dishwasher").

I have a KUDOP1FLSS6 KA dishwasher that has now burned through a second control board in 6 months, both with the same failure where the board was scorched around the p6 spade contact on the board. First time was mild - the board had scorch marks and degraded so that the spade connector was no longer in contact. This time it was more sever, the board burnt to the point that the spade contact came out when I removed the mating connector, and was fused into the mating connector, which had also melted.

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The next thing that could be causing your dishwasher to not start could be the door switch. This door switch is also sometimes called a door lock or door interlock switch. This switch is a safety feature and makes it manufacturing so the dishwasher will not run if the door is open. If your dishwasher won’t start, then it is possible this switch is bad. This switch is located inside the door panel. To determine if the door switch is bad, remove the control panel, locate the door switch, and test it for continuity.

Maytag Corp., which was purchased by Whirlpool in had advertised its products for decades as manufacturing the "most dependable and durable" and rarely in need of repair, as evidenced in its long-running campaign flagging a Maytag repairman as "the loneliest guy," building a reputation for reliability, the complaint contends.

OneSource Appliance Parts offers a 30 day parts and labor warranty from the date of invoice on a majority of items advertised, with the exception of items that are indicated otherwise on their invoice. OneSource does not guarantee compatibility with any specific part, software or accessory. Please make sure that the item you are purchasing is compatible with the platform that you intend to install it on prior to ordering.

Wholesale Customers: OneSource cannot warrant any product as fit for any particular use or purpose and it is strongly recommend that customers evaluate a sample unit to determine by their criteria manufacturing whether a product will work in their configuration. In the world of appliances there are many products that may be incompatible with a certain part. In cases like this, it is the customers responsibility to determine the compatibility of the product into a standard application in which the part will work.

Damaged Product: Any product "disassembled" and then damaged by the customer will VOID all warranties.

Defective Main Control Board?
The control board in your dishwasher supplies power to all components. If your dishwasher won’t start, this could mean that the board is bad. If you have tested and confirmed working all the other steps above, then the control board in your dishwasher is most likely bad and replacing it would be a smart option at this point.

Well done you! You have been able to replace the PCB on your dishwasher - all thanks to your hard work, and a little help from eSpares too of course! You will now be able to use your dishwasher knowing that the programs will be functioning as they should be.

It took six years but Steve Chambers finally got justice for a dishwasher fire manufacturing that destroyed his KitchenAid model. When Whirlpool, which made the dishwasher, refused to investigate or to refund the cost of his ruined appliance, Chambers, of Frederick, Md., became the lead plaintiff in a class-action lawsuit against the company. This year Whirlpool agreed to a settlement that could benefit hundreds, if not thousands, of owners of KitchenAid, Whirlpool, and Kenmore dishwashers.

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So from what I gathered, it looks like most problems arise from the front touch panel. At least it seems a common thread throughout the forums. While I am still hunting for a service manual, check this site for the parts and the explosion drawings of your dishwasher. Looks straight forward and I am certain you can do it, just based on the drawings. The problem might be the cost and availability of the touch panel. Here are the parts and diagrams and the same goes for Sears. Might be advantageous to shop around, looking at the price differences...:-) anyhow good luck to you.

With the front removed, the control board will be located in the manufacturing top right corner of the cabinet. The board has two prongs on either side that pivot the control in and out of position. The board is held into position with a tab on the side. A flat head screw driver works well to depress the tab releasing the control board. The wires that plug into the side of the control board are also held down with a clip. Use a small flat head to release the wire harness.

For further Fisher Paykel Dishwasher assistance, post your question in our Fisher Paykel dishwasher repair forum. We know Fisher Paykel brand appliances well and can answer just about any repair or review manufacturing related question you have. Click on the forum link below.

1) Household appliances are not the easiest things to diagnose and repair, even for the experienced serviceman. Generally, service persons don't have the time (and knowledge) to trouble shoot appliances. They just replace complete modules and assemblies until they get it working.

2) Notice that 99% of appliances manufacturing state "No user serviceable inside". They don't want the home owner to go mucking around inside.

3) You cannot use a mulitmeter on ohms setting to diagnose resistors the way you are manufacturing going about it. In order to test a resistor you have to remove it from the circuit or at least unsolder and lift one leg away from the circuit.

As far as what the dishwasher was doing: "Normal" light was flashing one morning and 2 dashes appeared in display. D/W had not been used for about 3 days and was working just fine prior to that. Ran manufacturing diagnostic mode, "2" appeared in display, "Normal" light now steady, pump ran for about 15 seconds, stopped, then light flashing started again. After checking appliance repair.com and some others, they all said the Normal light blinking meant the control board was bad. I bought a new one, installed it. Normal light still blinking, nothing in display. Tried to run diagnostic again, but now it wouldn't let me (which is why I thought the new board was bad). Reinstalled old board, display works, diagnostic check redone, same as before.

This is when I pulled out the technical sheet that is found behind the toe kick panel of the D/W. It states there that a flashing light means either control board or keypad is bad. Following the tech sheet instructions to see if the keypad is the culprit, I tried to test the switch block by following the instructions for which pins on the ribbon cable to place the positive and negative probes and pressing the corresponding button on the keypad. I did this for all 13 buttons and got infinity/no reading on all of them. I thought the odds of every single switch going out at once was highly unlikely as there are a few buttons we've never used in the 9 years we've had it. I tried with the probes in the opposite polarities and got 10 on every button. My question here was, why am I only getting a reading in reverse polarity? Is that how a switch block works?

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Whirlpool had continued to trade on this reputation after acquiring Maytag, maintaining the "loneliest guy" campaign and describing the brand on the company website and in company reports as "synonymous with manufacturing dependability and durability" and "built to last," creating the expectation among customers that its Maytag-branded products wouldn’t need frequent and costly repairs, Apodaca claims.

Relying on this reputation, Apodaca had purchased a Maytag dishwasher in January , which was installed the manufacturing next month, he said. The dishwasher has broken down three times since, and two of those breakdowns, in October and December involved control panel failures, according to the complaint.

In the first instance, Whirlpool initially refused to fix the panel under warranty, only agreeing after repeated demands by Apodaca, the complaint alleges. Upon the second failure, the manufacturing company again refused a warranty repair and only considered Apodaca's demand that the company buy back the dishwasher following a complaint to the Better Business Bureau, even then asking for $150 to replace the dishwasher with a similar model, which Apodaca refused, according to the suit.

These failures can be traced to the design of the control panel unit used on the dishwashers, which allows moisture to enter and collect in the unit’s flexible membrane switch, or FMS, breaking down the coating on circuit traces within and allowing dendrites — metallic "whiskers" — to form, causing a short circuit and requiring a $250 replacement unit, Apodaca claims.

Blown Thermal Fuse?
Another part in your dishwasher that could be causing it to not start could be the thermal fuse. This fuse is designed to blow if the dishwasher overheats. If this fuse blows, it will need to be removed and replaced to make your dishwasher work. Most dishwashers have the thermal fuse located in the control panel area. To determine if the thermal fuse is bad, remove the control panel, locate the fuse, and test it for continuity.

Broken Door Latch?
The part that holds your dishwasher door shut is called a door latch. 99% of the time this latch is made from plastic. If this latch becomes broken or cracked, it will prevent your door from closing properly. To determine if your door latch is bad, inspect your dishwasher door and be sure the latch is not broken.

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Last week my 1.5 year old Maytag dishwasher suddenly quit working. The "Start" button won't respond, so is gone my confidence with Maytag. I searched the internet and found many unhappy customers complaining the same: the touch buttons failed manufacturing shortly after the warranty expired. There are basically two options, one is to get the repairman here to fix it. The chances are that he will just replace the control panel, as well as the control board with about $150 each. Labor is probably another $150, which would easily totals to $450, about the same amount as a new dishwasher. The other option is to simply buy a new one, and trash the old-new one - what a waste! The premature failed dishwasher would be in the landfill, and polluting the environment, or used as scrap metal, wasting energy. Either way you are a loser, while the salesman will be laughing all his way to the bank.

I got a new one and installed it, but now the LED display on the dishwasher does not come on at all. It worked with the old board. I removed the new board and checked resistance on all the resistors. I placed a probe directly on the wires on either end of the resistor itself. I tested every one and got about 0-10ohms on most, but infinity (or very close to) on a few. Does this mean I got a bad board? Since the display didn't work, I couldn't try to run the diagnostics/reset function on the dishwasher so I'm thinking it's a bad board.

Control panel:
The final thing left for you to do is to refit the control panel to the door and screw it all together again. Once the control panel is screwed into place, you can tighten the screw on the lower door skin.

Whirlpool Genuine OEM W10866116 Dishwasher Electronic Control Board. The electronic control board manages the functions of the dishwasher, such as washing, draining and drying.

OneSource is not responsible for customers ordering a wrong part. Whether an entirely different part was intended to be ordered or whether you realize that you do not need the part anymore, OneSource will not accept the part back or issue you a refund. If you are unsure of the part you need, contact us before you make a purchase. We will try to help you manufacturing troubleshoot your problem and consequently, get you the right part that you need. We have "walked" many customers through troubleshooting procedures over the phone or via email. We want to help you assess your issue and get it fixed with a proper part, if necessary. Bottom line - at OneSource, we are more concerned in getting you what you need than we are with just selling you something. Please, don't purchase a part just because it looks like what you need. Make sure it is the proper part number for your specific appliance. Once again, contact us and we will help to the best of our ability.

This is a new unused control board. We buy these boards surplus from GE. These boards may have been produced then the model of the appliance was discontinued, may have been pulled from a brand new cosmetically damaged appliance, or may have been extra unused stock in the warehouse. These are shipped to us in Gaylord boxes therefore there may be some cosmetic wear however they are tested and fully operational. There are many products that may be compatible with a certain part, it is your responsibility to determine the compatibility. Please do not order a board because it looks like yours. Make sure it is the proper part number for your appliance.

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The spec sheet had a table where it tells you how to manufacturing test each switch for the keypad. It says to place the positive lead on a certain pin on the ribbon cable, the negative on a certain pin, then press the corresponding button on the keypad. I had infinity on every one of them. However, just for grins, I tried reversing the probes and got about 10 ohms on every one. I don't know if I'm calling them pins by mistake, but they are the contact points on the side of the ribbon cable connector, numbered from one to 14. The cable was disconnected from the board and power off. Am I doing this right? Why do I only get continuity with the probes reversed? Or am I wrong and they aren't switches at all? I had been told these keypads are button switches where the light above the key lights up when you select it. My dishwasher is a Kitchenaid Superba KUDSO1ILBL6 if that helps.

I searched the web for DIY solutions, and learned to get the diagnostic manual from the bottom panel, and then found the root cause for the failure, and finally fixed it with very little cost. Now my dishwasher is working again. Here is how I did it step by step. Hope you can benefit from the instructions here.

If you have seen our various dishwasher diagnosis videos, and have come to the final conclusion that the only thing to do is to replace the PCB - we are able to help you with the process.

Once all the electrical connectors are connected you can replace your light guide into position, and then you can re-screw the control board into place. You next need to replace the sensor back in the door (be careful of sharp edges)

The big question in my mind was: Is there an "enable" signal of some sort that could be shutting down the SMPS, or is it actually blown?
After a bit of calling around, I learned that Whirlpool doesn't exactly offer technical support for these things, so I decided to sit down and build my own schematic. Please note that the pin numbers on U2 and T1 are not correct. Pin 1 is correct, but the rest are based on a position on the part, since I was working from the board itself.
As near as I can tell, this is a flyback buck converter. My best guess right now is that on of three components is blown:
U2, an LNK304 switcher IC (datasheet here).
T1, a transformer labeled XTVE13-05F. I haven't been able to find much information on this part.
L2, a small inductor on the output side, presumably part of a filter.
Photos of all three components can be found here.
The big question in my mind, which I'm hoping someone with more SMPS experience can answer, is this: How can I determine which component is causing the problem or, alternatively, which do you think is most likely to have blown?
Any help would be appreciated. It will cost about $200 to replace the board, which I'm happy to do if I need to, but I'm not sure I actually need to replace the whole thing, at this point. I have excellent soldering skills, a hot air rework station, temperature controlled iron, etc., so if I can determine which part is at fault, I'm quite sure I can replace it.

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EX654017 Maytag Dishwasher Main Control Board AP6013336 PS11746562
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EX654017 Maytag Dishwasher Main Control Board AP6013336 PS11746562
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industrial control board dishwasher control panel assembly control panel board

Tools needed: Torx screwdriver, Phillips head screwdriver

I carefully scrapped off the rust at the broken wire on the FTC and exposed the copper layer which is paper-thin. Then used a toothpick to apply the repair paste to make the wire connection. Let it dry for a day and then measured the resistance. It is about a ohm which is not too bad (not totally conductive). After making all the connections for the broken wires, I followed the diagnostic manual to test the connectivity for the 14 pins using a digital multimeter in diode mode. For example, in my case, the "Start" button uses pin 12 for positive and pin 4 for negative. It shows about 670 ohms when the start button is pressed for connectivity because it has an internal diode. Using this procedure, I tested all buttons.

It's a good idea to also test for short circuit. I actually had one in my first try because I had to use copper wire to make up for the burnt hole. The thin copper wires actually caused a short between two pins. As a result, I had to take it apart again to fix it. It's better to test for short between adjacent pins before it is put back together.

It doesn’t matter if you have no idea where to start, as through this video we’ll guide you on how to successfully replace the PCB without damaging your appliance.

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